At the moment i'd like to have the lathe not trying to cut threads, just a nice even surface what is the best setting for that so that i can turn the leadscrew on and let the machine work it's way up the work piece rather than me do it all by hand? I hope this isn't too long for you all and posted in the correct area of the forum! Any and all help is welcomed. Thanks in advance! There are a lot of different kinds. It seems to work OK. Its chinese BTW.
You can get better ones, but they will be dearer as well. I would suggest using some release oil on the inside of the chuck for a few hours and then you should be able to knock it off with a sharp tap with a hammer on a well fitting chuck key.
Be extremely careful running the lathe in reverse. A small squirt from an oil can is needed on a daily basis if you are using it daily. There are headshaft grease nipples, grease occasionally.
The gun and the nipple must be spotless to avoid bearing contamination. There are allan screws for Across the bed, up and down is more difficult. There is a sticky topic which explains this a bit further. If it doesn't run on some selections the gearbox may be damaged. Getting thirsty, have to go. Cheers, Les. I think i might have to get in and have a look at the gear box.
I think i'll go and annoy my mate again! Re: My new viceroy lathe Post by Pete. Re: My new viceroy lathe Post by jpopowski » Thu 17 Jul , pm Hi Alastaire, I don't know if you have received answers to all of your questions!
Jan Yan. This is what you should find inside. My mate who runs the machine shop tell me that my headstock bearings are more than likely gone. I suppose i'll have to play about with the motor positioning and what not at some point too! Re: My new viceroy lathe Post by dazz » Fri 05 Sep , am Hello The spindle bearings are standard Timken taper roller bearings. The same bearings are in common use on other applications eg.
Cessna aircraft wheel bearings. The inner and outer cones are ordered separately. Make sure you get the right version. The T. This lathe was also sold, in late form, badged as the Model , though so far no examples have been found with screwcutting - a shame, as such a machine, being able to manage a wide variety of tasks in one compact and reasonable-priced package would, if offered on the model-engineering, home or small repair-workshop market, have sold rather well.
The 5" x 24" or 40" "Educator" as sold during This is a very highly specified version with backgear, screwcutting 4 to t. Inside the headstock showing the "single-lever" backgear arrangement - a system that allowed the students to destroy the gears with the movement of just one free-to-move control. Tumble-reverse drive and changewheels on the screwcutting models. A typical Viceroy under-drive countershaft system was employed with both initial and final drive to the headstock spindle by a segmental Brammer belt.
Synchro lathe and accessories for sale by rpwilson » Mon 21 Oct , am. Selector Dial stuck by Artysmarty » Tue 15 Oct , pm. Front gearbox plate by Artysmarty » Wed 16 Oct , pm. Feed speed chart by Artysmarty » Mon 14 Oct , pm. Auto feeds by Artysmarty » Fri 11 Oct , pm.
Viceroy wiring by JoeD » Wed 02 Oct , am. Thread dial gear for 5" and Synchro by rpwilson » Tue 07 Jul , pm. D camlock chuck and drive plate for sale.
All this data - and much more including charts to shows the various lever positions on a metric box when generating inch pictures - is contained in the comprehensive manual available here. As on many lathes, the tumble-reverse gears, at 20 D. All models were mounted on underdrive cabinet stands that took up a minimum amount of room - just 17" or 18" deep front to back and around 54" long in standard bed-length form. On Mk. Surprisingly, for a lathe intended to teach the basics of turning, the bottom speed of 60 rpm was rather too fast for screwcutting and, if this had been reduced to below 40 r.
In conjunction with an 8 t. Robustly constructed, with the usual set-over facility for turning shallow tapers, all tailstocks used a robust No. The heavy-duty tailstock is undoubtedly one of the most useful features of these lathes. With the carriage and tailstock reflecting the "round" lines common in the s and s - but headstock and screwcutting gearbox with a distinctly more modern angular look - the original style of the Viceroy was interesting.
However, by the s, the range had a distinctly old-fashioned air about it and, to keep it looking fresh, Denford introduced a Mk. Although some mechanical changes were made and the speed and screwcutting ranges altered it seems that the real extent of the re-design was to dust off the original blueprints, replace every curved line with a straight one and make new patterns.
However, an easier-to-use improved oil-bath power-feed apron incorporating an adjustable automatic knock-off was introduced - though the widespread use of cost-cutting, plastic-coated metal handles, secured by cheap spring-dowel pins was not so praiseworthy.
Finally, a few years later, the very last Mk. These were an almost complete redesign with a more complete specification; each version was fitted with a manual or electrically-operated variable-speed drive of the mechanical "Ainsworth" type that used pairs of opening and closing pulleys.
Accessories for Denford Viceroy metal-turning lathes consisted of the usual 3 and 4-jaw chucks, draw-in collets sets, a spindle-nose direct-fit collet set, a toolpost grinder with an internal attachment, turning, boring and knurling tools, a 4-way toolpost, a "Kingston" quick-change toolpost by Aloris, an American-type "lantern" toolpost, a rear toolpost for parting off, English to metric transposing changewheels and the necessary mounting quadrant, thread-dial indicators, tailstock rotating centres and tailstock chucks, a tailstock-mounted 6-station turret head by Martindale, a micro-adjustable offset tailstock rotating centre by T.
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